Pizza & Pompeii

Naples: Pizza Pilgrimage, Pompeii & Amalfi Coast Adventures

Slow down and savor Naples - the world's best pizza, Vesuvian ruins, underground catacombs, and the Amalfi Coast's turquoise coves.

Ciao, I'm Giuseppe. I grew up in the Spanish Quarter and have eaten pizza at Da Michele since I could walk. This guide was last updated in July 2026.

7 Days / 6 Nights
Naples, Italy
All Travelers
City Walking
$ - Budget-Friendly
April-June / September-October
Pompeii Ruins Naples Pizza Mount Vesuvius Amalfi Coast Spaccanapoli

Safety Note: Naples is safer than its reputation, but use street smarts. Stick to the centro storico at night, watch bags on the Circumvesuviana train, and ignore scooter noise. A margherita pizza costs 4-6 euros; an espresso at the bar is 1 euro - drink it standing like a local.

Why This Journey is Extraordinary

Local Secrets

Discover hidden pizza joints, underground catacombs, and quartieri lanes most tourists never see

Pizza Pilgrimage

From Da Michele (Eat Pray Love) to Brandi where the margherita was born, taste the world's best

Vesuvian Ruins

Walk frozen streets of Pompeii, Herculaneum, and hike to Vesuvius's smoking crater

Amalfi Coast

Positano's cliffs, Ravello's gardens, and Capri's Blue Grotto are all easy day trips

Daily Journey Inspiration

1

Spaccanapoli & Old Town Chaos

The street that splits Naples

Morning
Spaccanapoli Walk
Walk Spaccanapoli, the arrow-straight street that splits the old town in two, laid out by the Greeks 2,500 years ago. Dodge Vespas, peek into artisan workshops, and stop at the Church of Santa Chiara with its cloistered nuns' garden of hand-painted tiles.
Safety tip: Keep your phone tucked away and bags zipped - the crowds are thick and pickpockets work here.
Afternoon
Naples Cathedral & San Gennaro
Visit the Duomo di Napoli, home to the blood miracle of San Gennaro. In the Chapel of the Treasure, the saint's dried blood liquefies three times a year - September 19 is the big day. The adjacent basilica of Santa Restituta has 4th-century mosaics.
Local secret: The Crypt of San Gennaro (separate ticket) holds the saint's bones in a vault lit by candles.
Evening
Pizza at Da Michele
Join the line at Pizzeria Da Michele, the Eat Pray Love pizzeria serving only margherita and marinara since 1870. Two pizzas and a beer cost about 12 euros - the simplest and best meal of your life.
Pro tip: The line looks long but moves fast (30-45 min). Go at 7pm opening or after 9pm to wait less. Cash only.
2

Pompeii Day Trip

A city frozen in ash

Morning
Circumvesuviana to Pompeii
Take the Circumvesuviana train from Napoli Garibaldi (40 minutes, 2.80 euros) to Pompei Scavi. Spend the morning walking streets frozen by Vesuvius's 79 AD eruption - the Forum, the brothel with explicit frescoes, and plaster casts of victims.
Book ahead: Skip the line with online tickets (16 euros). Download a free audio guide or hire a guide at the gate for 50 euros split among 4-6 people.
Afternoon
Villa of the Mysteries
Don't miss the Villa of the Mysteries at Pompeii's northwest edge, with its vivid Dionysian frieze. Allow 4-5 hours total to see the major sites without rushing.
Pro tip: Bring water, a hat, and sunscreen - there's almost no shade. Wear closed shoes; the basalt streets are uneven.
Evening
Dinner at Sorbillo
Back in Naples, eat at Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali - the Gino Sorbillo pizzeria with a cult following. Try the pistachio pizza or the classic margherita with buffalo mozzarella.
3

Herculaneum & Vesuvius Hike

Better-preserved ruins and the crater

Morning
Herculaneum
Take the Circumvesuviana to Ercolano (20 minutes). Herculaneum is smaller than Pompeii but better preserved - wooden beams, beds, and upper floors survive. See the boat houses where 300 skeletons huddled from the pyroclastic flow.
Why we love it: Herculaneum gets a fraction of Pompeii's crowds. You can see it all in 2-3 hours, and entry is 16 euros.
Afternoon
Mount Vesuvius Hike
From Ercolano, take the Vesuvio Express van (20 euros) up to 1,000 meters, then hike 25 minutes to the crater's rim. Look down into the smoking vents and out across the Bay of Naples.
Book ahead: Reserve the Vesuvio Express online - vans fill up. The crater path is steep; wear sneakers, not sandals.
Evening
Pizza at Di Matteo
Dine at Pizzeria Di Matteo, where Bill Clinton once ate. Order the margherita and a sfogliatella pastry for dessert.
Local secret: Di Matteo fries its pizza dough for a crunchy crust - ask for the pizza fritta.
4

Underground Naples & Archaeological Museum

The city below the city

Morning
Napoli Sotterranea
Descend 40 meters below the streets with Napoli Sotterranea, a 2-hour tour of Greek-Roman aqueducts, WWII bomb shelters, and a hypogeum garden. The same tuff was quarried to build the city above.
Book ahead: Tours run hourly in English (10 euros). Bring a sweater - it's 60°F underground year-round.
Afternoon
National Archaeological Museum
Visit the world's best collection of Pompeii and Herculaneum artifacts at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale. Don't miss the Farnese Hercules, the Alexander Mosaic, and the Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto) of erotic finds.
Pro tip: Entry is 15 euros. The Secret Cabinet requires a free timed pass at the desk - ask for it.
Evening
Espresso & Pastries
Stop at Caffè Gambrinus (since 1860) for espresso at the bar (1 euro) and a sfogliatella riccia or babà al rum. The Belle Époque interior is worth lingering over.
Local rule: Coffee at the bar costs 1 euro; sitting at a table triples the price. Stand like a Neapolitan.
5

Castles & Christmas Creche Street

Seaside fortresses and artisan lanes

Morning
Castel dell'Ovo
Visit Castel dell'Ovo, the seaside castle on the Borgo Marinaro islet. Entry is free, and the rooftop has the best views of Vesuvius and the Bay. Walk the marina for lunch of fresh seafood at a trattoria.
Pro tip: The name "Egg Castle" comes from the legend that Virgil hid a magic egg in its foundations - if it breaks, Naples falls.
Afternoon
Via San Gregorio Armeno
Wander Via San Gregorio Armeno, the Christmas creche street open year-round. Artisans craft nativity figures of everyone from the Pope to Maradona. Buy a handmade terracotta figurine for 10-20 euros.
Local secret: Ask for a "presepe napoletano" - the traditional Naples nativity with shepherds, rivers, and tiny lights.
Evening
Castel Nuovo & Waterfront
End at Castel Nuovo (Maschio Angioino), the 13th-century Angevin fortress by the port. Climb the Torre di Mezzo for sunset over the harbor, then dinner in the Chiaia district.
6

Amalfi Coast Day Trip

Positano, Amalfi & Ravello

Morning
Ferry to Positano
Take the NLG ferry from Molo Beverello (50 minutes, 22 euros one-way) to Positano. Climb the pastel-colored steps, browse the lemon-tree shops, and photograph the cliffside dome of Santa Maria Assunta.
Book ahead: Ferries fill up in summer - book online the night before. Sit on the left side for Amalfi Coast views.
Afternoon
Amalfi & Ravello
Ferry or SITA bus to Amalfi town - tour the striped Duomo di Sant'Andrea, then bus up to Ravello for the Villa Cimbrone gardens and the Infinity Terrace, 365 meters above the sea.
Local secret: Ravello's Villa Rufolo hosts open-air concerts in summer - Wagner was inspired here.
Evening
Limoncello & Return
Sip limoncello made from Amalfi Coast sfusato lemons, then ferry back to Naples for a late pizza dinner.
7

Capri Option & Farewell

Blue Grotto or final pizza

Morning
Option A: Capri Island
Take the ferry (50 minutes, 25 euros) to Capri. Ride the funicular to Capri town, take a boat tour of the Blue Grotto (sea conditions permitting), and ride the chairlift to Monte Solaro for the island's highest view.
Book ahead: Book a Blue Grotto boat tour in Marina Grande - lines for the rowboats can be 2 hours in peak season.
Afternoon
Option B: Phlegraean Fields
Stay near Naples and visit the Campi Flegrei - the Solfatara volcanic crater, the underwater ruins of Baiae, and the Flavian Amphitheatre at Pozzuoli.
Evening
Farewell at Brandi
End your trip at Pizzeria Brandi, where the margherita pizza was invented in 1889 for Queen Margherita. Order the original and toast Naples with a Lacryma Christi wine from Vesuvius's slopes.
Souvenir tip: Bring home a bottle of limoncello, a San Gennaro medal, or a presepe figurine from San Gregorio Armeno.

Practical Tips

Getting There

Fly into Naples Capodichino Airport (NAP). The Alibus shuttle reaches the center in 20 minutes for 5 euros.

Transportation

The Metro Line 1 connects the center to the museum. The Circumvesuviana train (2.80 euros) reaches Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Sorrento.

Visa Requirements

EU citizens need no visa. U.S. citizens can stay 90 days visa-free in Schengen; ETIAS authorization starts in 2026.

Safety Tips

Stick to the centro storico at night, watch bags on the Circumvesuviana, and don't flash phones. Most crime is petty theft - violent crime is rare.

What to Pack

Comfortable walking shoes for ruins and cobblestones, a money belt, and layers - Naples is mild but windy near the bay.

Local Etiquette

Drink espresso standing at the bar, never order cappuccino after 11am, and tip small (round up). Embrace the chaos - it's the charm.

Traveler Reviews

Marco S.

Marco S.

Chicago, IL | June 2026

Da Michele lived up to the hype - two margheritas and a beer for 12 euros, cash only. We went at 7pm and waited 35 minutes. The pizza was the simplest I've ever had and somehow the best. The crust was charred just right. Spaccanapoli the next morning was gloriously chaotic - dodging Vespas felt like a video game.

Hannah J.

Hannah J.

Bristol, UK | May 2026

Pompeii was a full day well spent. We pre-booked online for 16 euros and hired a guide at the gate for 50 euros split among 4 of us - worth every penny. The plaster casts of the victims hit hard. Bring water and a hat, there's zero shade. Dinner back in Naples at Sorbillo - the pistachio pizza changed my life.

Raj P.

Raj P.

Bangalore, India | April 2026

Herculaneum blew me away - the wooden beams and upper floors actually survived. Way fewer crowds than Pompeii and we saw it all in 3 hours. The Vesuvio Express van from Ercolano was 20 euros and the 25-minute hike to the crater rim was thrilling. Looking down into the smoking vents of the volcano that buried the city below was surreal.

Elena V.

Elena V.

São Paulo, Brazil | March 2026

Napoli Sotterranea was unexpected - 40 meters down into Greek-Roman aqueducts and WWII bomb shelters. 10 euros for a 2-hour English tour and it was 60 degrees underground while it was 75 above. The National Archaeological Museum's Farnese Hercules is enormous in person. Caffè Gambrinus espresso for 1 euro at the bar - standing like a local!

Tom R.

Tom R.

Auckland, New Zealand | February 2026

The Amalfi Coast day trip was the highlight. Ferry to Positano for 22 euros, then SITA bus to Amalfi and up to Ravello. The Infinity Terrace at Villa Cimbrone, 365 meters above the sea, was worth the winding bus ride. We had limoncello made from sfusato lemons in Amalfi town. Came back to Naples and ate pizza at Di Matteo - the pizza fritta is fried dough and incredible.

Sara K.

Sara K.

Toronto, Canada | January 2026

Via San Gregorio Armeno was magical even in January - artisan shops crafting nativity figures year-round. I bought a hand-painted terracotta Maradona shepherd for 15 euros. Castel dell'Ovo is free and the rooftop views of Vesuvius at sunset were unreal. We felt safe sticking to the centro storico at night and never had any trouble.

Liam O.

Liam O.

Dublin, Ireland | December 2025

December was perfect - mild weather, no crowds, and the San Gennaro blood miracle day had passed but the Duomo was still buzzing. The Secret Cabinet at the Archaeological Museum was eye-opening - those Pompeiians were not shy. The sfogliatella riccia at Gambrinus with a babà al rum made the perfect breakfast. Naples is raw and I loved it.

Nadia H.

Nadia H.

Casablanca, Morocco | November 2025

We did the Capri day trip on day 7 - 25 euros for the 50-minute ferry. The Blue Grotto boat tour line was long but we waited it out and the glowing blue water was worth it. Rode the chairlift to Monte Solaro for the island's highest view. Final dinner at Brandi, where the margherita was born - the original recipe with Lacryma Christi wine was the perfect farewell to Naples.

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