Maritime Republic & Pesto Capital

Genoa: La Superba

Walk UNESCO palaces, medieval alleys, and the Italian Riviera in Italy's most underrated maritime city.

Hi, I'm Lorenzo. I've lived in Genoa for ten years and have walked every caruggi alley from Principe to Carignano. This guide was last updated in September 2026.

7 Days / 6 Nights
Genoa, Italy
All Travelers
City Walking
$$ - Moderate
April-June / September-October
Palazzi dei Rolli Caruggi Old Town Genoa Aquarium Pesto Genovese Cinque Terre

Tipping Note: In Genoa, a "coperto" cover charge of 1.50 to 3 euros is automatically added to your bill. Tipping isn't expected, but rounding up or leaving 5 to 10 percent for exceptional service is appreciated. Cash is still king at many trattorias.

Why This Journey is Extraordinary

UNESCO Palaces

Walk 42 Renaissance palaces built to host visiting kings and popes on a rotating system

Medieval Labyrinth

Lose yourself in 7km of caruggi alleys, some barely a meter wide, unchanged since the Middle Ages

Pesto Capital

Taste authentic pesto genovese where it was born, made with Genoese basil DOP and pine nuts

Riviera Gateway

Use Genoa as your base for Cinque Terre, Portofino, and the Ligurian coast

Daily Journey Inspiration

1

Palazzi dei Rolli & Via Garibaldi

UNESCO Renaissance palaces on Genoa's grandest street

Morning
Via Garibaldi (Strada Nuova)
Start on Strada Nuova, built between 1556 and 1586, now a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Republic of Genoa built 42 Rolli palaces here under a 1576 system that rotated hosting duties for visiting dignitaries. Nobles drew lots to see who'd put up the Pope or the King of Spain. Three palaces are open today, and you can walk all in one morning.
Pro tip: Buy the Rolli Card (€12) for entry to Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco, and Palazzo Tursi, plus other palaces in special openings.
Afternoon
Palazzo Rosso
Built in 1675 for the Brignole-Sale family, Palazzo Rosso now houses an art gallery with works by Van Dyck, Guido Reni, and Veronese. The furniture and frescoes give you a real sense of how Genoese aristocracy lived. Entry is free on the first Sunday of every month, so plan accordingly if you're here then.
Evening
Dinner at Sa Pesta
Eat at Sa Pesta, the oldest pesto restaurant in Genoa, serving since 1881. Order the trenette al pesto for about 12 euros and taste what real Genovese basil tastes like. The place is tiny and always packed, so arrive early or expect to wait.
2

Caruggi Old Town

Seven kilometers of medieval alleys and hidden palaces

Morning
The Caruggi
Dive into the caruggi, the medieval narrow alleys that form one of Europe's largest intact old towns. There's 7km of streets, some as narrow as a single meter. Walk the Sottoripa porticoes along the harbor, then duck into Formaggeria e salumeria shops for local cheese and cured meats. You'll get lost. That's the point.
Local secret: Look up. The caruggi hide palaces behind plain facades. Ring a bell at Palazzo Reale and you might catch a courtyard tourists walking past never notice.
Afternoon
Palazzo Ducale
Visit the Doge's Palace, the 13th-century residence of the 120 doges who ruled Genoa from 1339 to 1797. The palace now hosts major art exhibitions and cultural events. The frescoed halls are worth the entry fee even without a show on. Check the schedule before you go, as some exhibitions are genuinely world-class.
Evening
Dinner at Trattoria San Collombano
Eat traditional Genovese food at Trattoria San Collombano, where you'll spend 20 to 35 euros per person. Try the cima, a stuffed veal roll that's a local specialty most tourists never hear about. The wine list is all Ligurian, which means Vermentino whites that pair perfectly with the food.
3

Porto Antico & Aquarium

Renzo Piano's waterfront and Europe's second-largest aquarium

Morning
Porto Antico
Explore Porto Antico, the old port renovated by architect Renzo Piano in 1992 for the Columbus Quincentenary. This was once the fourth-largest port in the Mediterranean. Walk through Piazza delle Feste, step inside the Biosfera tropical greenhouse, and ride the Bigo lift for panoramic views of the harbor.
Afternoon
Genoa Aquarium
Visit the Genoa Aquarium, opened in 1992 and now Europe's second-largest aquarium. It holds 71 tanks with 12,000 animals including dolphins, sharks, and penguins. Tickets run about 27 euros. The jellyfish room and the tropical shark tank are the highlights. Plan on two to three hours.
Pro tip: Buy aquarium tickets online to skip the queue. If you're visiting between June and August, go after 4pm when cruise-ship crowds have cleared out.
Evening
Dinner at Cantine San Pietro
Have dinner at Cantine San Pietro on Molo Sanità 2, right on the portside. You'll spend 30 to 50 euros per person for the freshest seafood in the city. The fritto misto is legendary here. Watch the sunset over the harbor while you eat.
4

Boccadasse & Nervi

Fishing villages and coastal promenades

Morning
Boccadasse
Take bus 10 or walk 30 minutes along the sea to Boccadasse, a 19th-century fishing village swallowed by the city but never changed. Pastel houses crowd a small bay. Get gelato at Gelateria Ignoto and sit on the rocks watching the boats. This is where Genoese families come for their evening passeggiata.
Afternoon
Nervi
Head east to Nervi and walk the Passeggiata Anita Garibaldi, a 2km coastal promenade above the sea. Then wander the Parks of Nervi, connecting four historic villas with rose gardens. Stop at the Racconigi Gallery for modern art. The promenade is free and the views of the Ligurian Sea are the best in the city.
Evening
Dinner at Capo di Faro
Eat at Capo di Faro, a lighthouse restaurant with stunning sea views. You'll spend 25 to 40 euros per person. The seafood pasta here is simple and perfect. Book a table on the terrace for sunset if you can.
5

Cinque Terre Day Trip

Five UNESCO villages, hiking trails, and focaccia

Morning
Train to Cinque Terre
Take the 90-minute train ride from Genoa to Cinque Terre, five UNESCO villages clinging to the cliffs: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Buy the Cinque Terre Card (18.50 euros) for unlimited train hops between villages and trail access. Start in Riomaggiore and work your way north.
Book ahead: Take the 7am train from Genoa Piazza Principe. You'll beat the day-tripper rush and have Vernazza almost to yourself by 9am.
Afternoon
Vernazza & Monterosso
Spend the most time in Vernazza and Monterosso. Vernazza is the most photographed village, with the Doria Castle from the 11th century guarding the tiny harbor. Monterosso has the only real beach. Eat focaccia and farinata, the chickpea flatbread that's the Ligurian snack of choice. Both are cheap, filling, and delicious.
Evening
Return to Genoa
Take the train back to Genoa and have dinner at Osteria di Vico Palla, a seafood trattoria in the old port area. You'll spend 25 to 40 euros per person. The spaghetti alle vongole here is worth the train ride alone. Sit inside, the alley is too narrow for outdoor tables.
6

Staglieno Cemetery & Forts

Europe's most beautiful cemetery and 9km of walls

Morning
Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno
Visit the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno, opened in 1844 and covering one square kilometer. It's one of Europe's most beautiful cemeteries, with neoclassical, Art Nouveau, and Byzantine tombs across terraced hillsides. It draws 500,000 visitors a year. The sculpture is genuinely museum-quality.
Why we love it: This is the most off-the-beaten-path stop on the itinerary. You'll share it with locals, not tour groups. Bring a camera.
Afternoon
Forts of Genoa
Take the cable car up to the Forts of Genoa. The Fortress of St. Benigno dates to the 17th century, and Forte Sperone was built in 1822 on the summit. There are 16 forts connected by 9km of walls, the longest 19th-century defensive walls in Europe. The views over the city and harbor are spectacular.
Evening
Dinner at Le Rune
Have dinner at Le Rune for modern Genovese cuisine at 20 to 35 euros per person. They put a contemporary spin on traditional dishes like pansoti, a stuffed pasta served with walnut sauce. The atmosphere is lively and the wine list leans local.
7

Genoa Cathedral & Farewell

San Lorenzo, maritime museum, and final pesto

Morning
Genoa Cathedral of San Lorenzo
Visit the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, consecrated in 1098. The black-and-white stripes are classic Genoese Gothic. Inside, see 13th-century frescoes and the Chapel of St. John the Baptist. Don't miss the Museo del Tesoro, which holds what some believe is the Holy Grail chalice.
Afternoon
Galata Museo del Mare
End at the Galata Museo del Mare, opened in 2004 and the largest maritime museum in the Mediterranean. It covers 10,000 square meters across four floors with exhibits on Genoese ships, Columbus, and migration stories. The top-floor mirador has sweeping port views. This museum tells you why Genoa mattered.
Evening
Farewell Dinner
For your last meal, choose between Trattoria Rosmarino (25 to 40 euros per person) for traditional Genovese cooking or Ugo Orte (20 to 30 euros per person) for a more casual sendoff. Both serve excellent pesto, which is the only acceptable farewell dish in this city.

Practical Tips

Getting There

Fly into Genoa Cristoforo Colombo Airport (GOA). The Volbus reaches the city center in 20 minutes for 6 euros.

Transportation

Buy a 24-hour AMT ticket for 4.50 euros for unlimited bus and metro. Cable cars to the forts are covered separately.

Visa Requirements

Italy is in the Schengen Area. Most nationalities get 90 days visa-free. EU citizens need no visa at all.

Budget Tips

Genoa runs 30 to 40 percent cheaper than Florence or Rome. A solid lunch costs 10 to 15 euros, and a plate of pesto is about 12 euros.

What to Pack

Comfortable shoes for the caruggi's uneven cobblestones, swimwear for Cinque Terre, and a light jacket for evening sea breezes.

Best Time to Visit

April through June and September through October give you warm weather without the crowds. Skip July and August when heat and tourists both peak.

Genoa Gallery

Genoa harbor Porto Antico with historic buildings Genoa caruggi narrow medieval alley Palazzi dei Rolli Renaissance palace facades Boccadasse fishing village pastel houses Cinque Terre colorful cliffside villages Genoa Cathedral of San Lorenzo striped facade

Traveler Reviews

Tony M.

Tony M.

Providence, RI | June 2026

★★★★★

Via Garibaldi blew me away. I had no idea Genoa had palaces this grand. Palazzo Rosso's Van Dyck collection is incredible and we got in free on the first Sunday. The pesto at Sa Pesta lived up to the hype, best in Italy.

Claire D.

Claire D.

Portland, OR | September 2025

★★★★★

Getting lost in the caruggi was my favorite part. Some alleys are so narrow you can touch both walls at once. Found the best cheese shop down one and bought focaccia fresh from the oven. Palazzo Ducale had a world-class photography exhibit. Genoa doesn't get the credit it deserves.

Mike R.

Mike R.

San Diego, CA | May 2026

★★★★★

The Genoa Aquarium was way bigger than I expected. The dolphin tanks were amazing and the jellyfish room was otherworldly. Took the Bigo lift up afterward for an unreal port view. Cantine San Pietro for dinner after, the fritto misto was the best seafood of the whole trip.

Sophie L.

Sophie L.

Boston, MA | October 2025

★★★★★

Boccadasse stole my heart. It's a tiny fishing village right in the city, with pastel houses on a little bay. Got gelato at Gelateria Ignoto and sat on the rocks watching the sunset. The coastal promenade in Nervi was stunning too. These are the neighborhoods that make Genoa special.

Greg W.

Greg W.

Denver, CO | June 2026

★★★★★

The Cinque Terre day trip was the highlight of our Italy trip. We took the 7am train and had Vernazza nearly empty for two hours. Hiked the Sentiero Azzurro and ate focaccia on the trail. Coming back to Osteria di Vico Palla for spaghetti alle vongole was perfect.

Amy K.

Amy K.

Chicago, IL | September 2025

★★★★★

Staglieno Cemetery was the biggest surprise of the trip. I know it sounds weird, but the sculpture is genuinely museum quality. Art Nouveau tombs on terraced hills. Took the cable car up to the forts after and the view was incredible.

Paul N.

Paul N.

Austin, TX | May 2026

★★★★★

San Lorenzo Cathedral is striking with those black-and-white stripes. The Museo del Tesoro had what they claim is the Holy Grail chalice, which was a surprise. But Galata Museo del Mare was the real stunner. Four floors telling the story of Genoa as a maritime power. The migration exhibit on the top floor was powerful.

Nina F.

Nina F.

Seattle, WA | April 2026

★★★★★

Genoa is criminally underrated. It's 30 percent cheaper than Rome or Florence and has better food. Trattoria San Collombano served us cima, that stuffed veal roll, and it was incredible. Already planning a return trip.

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